Russet Crag (Chiappera)

Sunny and panoramic crag located in a majestic high-mountain setting, facing the great walls of the Castello-Provenzale Group. Here you climb on excellent worked quartzite that offers various climbing styles with a prevalence of athletic pitches on vertical walls for the harder routes, while there are more featured and worked areas on the easier pitches.
Comfortable base and approach that’s not excessive (20/30 minutes) make it an excellent place to spend a pleasant day of sport climbing even with family.
South-facing and at an elevation of 2000 m, ideal in summer (no shade…bring sunscreen) but also in spring and fall.
Recent bolt protection and two adjacent sectors make this a site with 31 routes, from grade 4 to 8a+(?).
Access: along the dirt road that leads from Chiappera to Grange Russet, park just before the switchbacks near some ruins on your right. Take a trail a little further ahead that climbs to the granges. From there follow the path toward Greguri Pass and after a few minutes leave the trail to take some meadows on the right that lead to a ridge with a saddle. You’ll find yourself “behind” the crag. Descend from the saddle and shortly reach the base of the right sector. Important note: almost always at the base of the crag there’s an active spring with excellent water.
WARNING: Recently someone has removed the first bolts on some pitches, which are currently not climbable. We hope for a prompt restoration of the affected routes.
Useful links:
https://www.gulliver.it/itinerari/russet-falesia-del/
https://www.cuneoclimbing.it/new/2025/07/08/chiappera-falesia-del-russet-2/
https://www.cuneoclimbing.it/new/2025/01/08/chiappera-falesia-del-rousset-settore-basso/
https://27crags.com/crags/russet/description
Bibliography: “Valle Maira – climbing guide” (Renato Botte and Luca de Giorgi)
Information
- Region: Acceglio
- Seasons: Autumn, Spring, Summer
- Difficulty: Easy, Family-friendly, Hard, Medium Difficulty
Mountain sports are potentially dangerous activities and must be undertaken with the right equipment and preparation. We invite you to consult the weather and avalanche bulletin before embarking on an excursion and/or contact a guide for assistance. The Valle Maira Tourist Consortium declines any responsibility in relation to the advice and itineraries shown here, which must be evaluated personally according to the weather conditions and snow cover.